Do you remember when I made that entry about surfing and the Atlantic Hurricane Season? Mathew is already nearby and Nicholas will be back in New England in a month. I can't buy a board at the moment, but there's always rental. I've been thinking about it a lot -- 50 yards out, rising and falling with the swells, watching the horizon for the hint of definition that quickly draws a dark wall. When the water beneath you rushes seaward to climb the wall and you time your strokes and your leap to mount it, it's like joining a running horse. While you never really notice it, there may be a vague relief that this horse races toward the beach -- high swells, thick fast foam and cold water can be unnerving sometimes. I have to call my brothers.


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